The Church’s Diplomat is a black Oxford semi-brogue, and in GoldenEye it is on Bond’s feet through a tank chase and a train. It is the kind of shoe that does not need to be noticed. The Church’s Diplomat remains in the maker’s range, which makes it an easy piece to buy.

In the film

Pierce Brosnan‘s Bond wears black Church’s Diplomat semi-brogues with the blue bird’s eye suit. They are visible during the T-55 tank chase, and when he kicks a hole in the floor of the train to escape with Natalya.

The details of the Diplomat

A semi-brogue. The Diplomat is an Oxford with limited broguing, so it sits between a plain cap-toe and a full brogue. It is formal enough for a suit and relaxed enough for a long day.

Black calf leather. Church’s current Diplomat 173 is a calf leather Oxford brogue in black. The film pair is described as the black Diplomat, so the colour is the same.

The current version. Church’s US store lists the Diplomat 173 at US$1,320 at the time of writing, October 2026, though the page shows it as pre-order and sold out online. The model number 173 is Church’s current name for the style, and we cannot say how closely it matches the 1995 pair.

Wearing it now

The Diplomat is the first black shoe we would suggest to anyone building a wardrobe. It goes with a blue bird’s eye suit, as in the film, and with grey flannel, charcoal and navy. Resole it rather than replace it, and use shoe trees.

Second-hand. Pre-owned Diplomats are sold by specialist shops, and eBay carries Diplomat listings, with pre-owned examples priced well below new.

Specifications

Maker	Church’s
Model	Diplomat (now sold as Diplomat 173)
Style	Oxford semi-brogue
Material	Black calf leather
Price (US store)	US$1,320 (at the time of writing, October 2026)

The maker’s page is on Church’s US site.

Questions

What shoes does Bond wear in GoldenEye?

Black Church’s Diplomat semi-brogues, with the blue bird’s eye suit.

Does Church’s still make the Diplomat?

Yes, as the Diplomat 173 in black calf leather.

Is the Diplomat a brogue?

It is an Oxford with brogue detailing, usually called a semi-brogue.

See more clothing from the films, or go to the GoldenEye page.

semi-brogue shoes

Church’s Diplomat Black Calf Semi-Brogue (GoldenEye)