The Brioni Plinio blazer is the navy double-breasted jacket Pierce Brosnan’s Bond wears in GoldenEye, and it is a good example of how much a cut can say. The Plinio is an early Brioni model with a strong shoulder and a long, top-heavy line, now out of production, so a Brioni Plinio blazer is found second-hand and the look can also be had from a good tailor.
In the film
Bond wears the blue wool double-breasted Brioni Plinio blazer with a blue shirt and sand-coloured Brioni Snello trousers when he enters the Manticore yacht and fails to stop the helicopter being stolen. A style source calls the cloth navy wool doeskin, and Brioni itself is reported to have confirmed that the double-breasted blazer is the Plinio model. Our evidence is high-confidence for the model.
The details of the Plinio
Button two, show three. The Plinio is a two-button-fastening, three-button-showing model, which one source calls the most classic double-breasted configuration. The jacket was made as both a suit and a blazer.
Built up at the shoulder. Brioni’s own description, quoted by a tailoring writer, says the Plinio has shoulder pads of about 1cm, against about 0.3cm on the later Parioli. The button stance is higher, and the gorge, armhole and waist point sit much lower, with a longer jacket.
The result. The jacket is stronger, longer and more top-heavy than later models. That gives the film its sense of the 1990s: an assured, substantial blazer rather than a soft, slim one.
A family of cuts. The same writer notes that the Plinio is, in effect, the double-breasted version of Brioni’s Augusto model.
Wearing it now
A navy double-breasted blazer is for a man comfortable in a jacket. Keep the buttons fastened when standing and undone when seated, and wear it with grey or sand trousers, a blue or white shirt and plain loafers or lace-ups, much as the film does. We would choose a softer shoulder than the Plinio’s if you want it to feel current, and a tailor can adjust a vintage jacket in that direction.
Buying second-hand. Brioni double-breasted blazers appear on eBay and Poshmark at modest prices; a pre-owned Brioni Plinio double-breasted blazer was listed on Poshmark at the time of writing, October 2026, though in black pinstripe rather than navy. Check the shoulder, the length and the lining, and ask about alterations to the sleeves.
In the same spirit
A current alternative, not the jacket from the film:
- Blazé Milano Midday Sun double-breasted linen blazer: a current double-breasted blazer, in orange linen rather than navy wool.
Specifications
| Maker | Brioni |
|---|---|
| Model | Plinio, double-breasted |
| Cloth and colour | Blue wool (described as navy doeskin by one source) |
| Fastening | Two buttons to fasten, three showing |
| Shoulder | Padded, about 1cm (per Brioni) |
| Status | Early Brioni model, no longer made; found second-hand |
Questions
What blazer does Bond wear in GoldenEye?
A blue wool double-breasted Brioni Plinio blazer. See more on the film page.
Is the Brioni Plinio still made?
No. It is an early model that Brioni has since replaced with others such as the Parioli, so the Plinio is found second-hand.
How does the Plinio differ from later Brioni jackets?
Brioni says the Plinio has thicker shoulder pads, a higher button stance, a lower waist point and a longer jacket than the Parioli.
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