The world of James Bond, considered for a life well lived

Napapijri Napa By Martine Rose Bomber Jacket (No Time To Die)

A navy, burgundy and black stretch cotton bomber from Napapijri’s collaboration with Martine Rose, worn by Primo, one of the film’s villains, in the Matera chase of No Time To Die. It is out of production and found second-hand, and its casual shape is easy to wear now.

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Most of what we cover belongs to Daniel Craig’s Bond. This belongs to the man chasing him. In the Matera sequence of No Time To Die, Primo wears a navy, burgundy and black geometric bomber from Napa By Martine Rose, a collaboration between the Italian brand Napapijri and the London designer Martine Rose. The Napapijri Martine Rose jacket is out of production and is now found second-hand, but the idea behind it is easy to carry into a wardrobe today.

In the film

Primo, played by Dali Benssalah, wears the jacket in the Matera scenes, in the chase on a Triumph 1200 Scrambler after Bond. His outfit also includes a Hamilton watch and LGR sunglasses, so the jacket is one part of a considered, rather sharp look for a villain.

The details of the Napapijri Martine Rose jacket

A bomber in stretch cotton. The jacket is cut from stretch cotton, which should give it more ease than a rigid nylon flight jacket and let it move with you.

A geometric pattern in three colours. Navy, burgundy and black make up the design. It is a dark, restrained palette, which keeps a graphic pattern easy to live with.

The bomber construction. It has long sleeves, an elasticated waistband and elasticated cuffs, a front zip fastening and a stand-up collar. Those details give the jacket its shape.

Where it comes from. Napapijri worked with Martine Rose on the Napa By Martine Rose line, which drew on the 1990s meeting of high fashion and streetwear. It is a designer collaboration with an Italian brand, and that mix is what makes the jacket worth knowing.

Wearing it now

This is a jacket for the weekend, and we would keep everything beneath it plain. A grey or navy knit, a white or oatmeal T-shirt, dark trousers or worn-in jeans, and clean leather or suede shoes. The pattern does enough on its own; the rest of the outfit shouldn’t compete.

We would not dress it up with tailoring. The bomber shape and the stand-up collar belong with casual clothes, in the same family as a field jacket or a Harrington. Set against the quieter, more classic clothing Bond wears in the film, this leans urban and sharper, which makes it a good counterweight in a wardrobe.

Finding one. Because the jacket is out of production, the realistic route is second-hand. Search by the product code N0YIG5, check the size label carefully and ask for photographs of the zip, cuffs and waistband, the parts that wear first. Do not rely on the colour name alone, as the collaboration includes many patterned pieces.

Fit. We have no measurements from the maker for this jacket, so we would not guess at sizing. Ask the seller for chest and length measurements and compare them with a bomber you already own.

In the same spirit

These are alternatives, not the jacket Primo wears. If the pattern matters less to you than the short, easy, casual shape, these two come closest.

Specifications

Product code N0YIG5
Line Napa By Martine Rose (Napapijri)
Colour Navy, burgundy and black geometric pattern
Material Stretch cotton
Construction Long sleeves, elasticated cuffs and waistband, front zip, stand-up collar
Original retail price US$240; out of production, found second-hand

For the current Martine Rose and Napapijri collaboration, see Napapijri’s own page.

Questions

Is this the jacket Primo wears in No Time To Die?

Yes, according to our catalogue. It is the Napapijri Napa By Martine Rose bomber, product code N0YIG5, worn by Primo in the Matera chase.

Can you still buy the Napapijri Martine Rose jacket?

Not new. It is out of production and found second-hand, and the current Martine Rose for Napapijri pieces are different designs. Second-hand examples are the realistic route.

How much did the jacket cost?

It had a retail price of US$240 when it was available. Second-hand prices will vary with condition and size.

Who is Martine Rose?

She is a London menswear designer. Her Napa line with Napapijri takes the 1990s mix of high fashion and streetwear as its starting point.

For more from the same film, see our guide to No Time To Die and to the Daniel Craig years.