Most of what Daniel Craig’s Bond wears in Cuba is plain: jeans, a shirt, boat shoes. The jacket is the exception. Cut short, in dark navy waxed cotton, the Barbour Graham jacket is a country shape borrowed for a town in the sun, and it is the piece that holds the outfit together. It is also out of production, and found second-hand, which changes how you go about owning one.
In the film
In No Time To Die (2021), Bond wears the jacket in Cuba, walking to and then into the bar where Paloma is drinking a cherry cola. It sits over the same jeans, shirt and shoes he wears in Jamaica. A clearer shot in the second trailer points to the navy, unwashed waxed version (MCA0596NY71), with two buttons on the collar for a wind flap. The identification is strong rather than absolute, and we would rather say so.
The details of the Barbour Graham jacket
Two makers. The Graham came out of a 2019 collaboration between Barbour and Engineered Garments, whose head designer is Daiki Suzuki. It was made in navy, brown, sand, olive and black, washed and unwashed, some with corduroy collars. In effect it is Barbour’s country shape seen through Engineered Garments’ eye.
The Beaufort, shortened. The Graham takes the Beaufort as its starting point and cuts it to a short length, with welted side pockets, a sit-down collar and a zipped game pocket at the back. We think the shorter hem is what stops it reading as a shooting coat, and it sits as easily over jeans as over chinos.
Unwashed wax. The jacket in the film appears to be the unwashed version, so the cotton keeps its full waxed finish. Expect it to be a little stiff at first and to soften with wear. The washed version has a vintage hand, but it is sold as not eligible for rewaxing, which is one reason we would look for the unwashed jacket.
The closure. A front zip is covered by a storm flap that fastens with snaps, and the collar has a throat latch. It is a more practical, and more workmanlike, front than a plain zip.
Unlined. The Graham is sold as an unlined jacket in 100% cotton. It is a layer for mild and wet days, not a winter coat.
Wearing it now
This is a jacket for the man who wants a navy waxed layer that is not obviously a Barbour. Wear it as Bond does: grey or dark jeans, a plain cotton shirt, suede or leather boat shoes. We would also wear it with a navy or oatmeal knit and chinos on a weekend in the country, or over a white oxford for a short walk to a restaurant. It is too casual for a suit.
Which one to find. Navy, unwashed, waxed, MCA0596NY71. That is the one that matches the film, and because it is unwashed it can be rewaxed. It was a limited 2019 collaboration, so we have pointed the button at an eBay search. Ask sellers for photos of the wax finish, the collar snaps and the label.
Fit. One retailer described it as true to size, but an owner and commentators on the near-identical Covert describe the cut as generous. Second-hand, check measurements against a jacket you already own, and consider your usual layers before choosing a size.
Care. Brush off dry mud, sponge clean, and rewax when the cloth starts to look dry. Never machine wash it.
If you cannot find a Graham. See the alternative below, or consider the Covert, which Barbour made later. It is a close cousin in a slightly darker navy, with a smaller front zip and altered collar snaps. It is in the spirit of the film jacket, though not the same jacket, and its availability changes.
In the same spirit
If you cannot find a Graham, the Barbour Beacon Sports waxed jacket is a current waxed alternative in the same family. It is an alternative, not the jacket Bond wears in Cuba, and it is longer and more traditional in cut.
Specifications
| Reference | MCA0596NY71 |
|---|---|
| Collaboration | Barbour x Engineered Garments, Spring/Summer 2019 |
| Colour | Navy |
| Fabric | 100% cotton; waxed, unwashed version (the finish the film jacket appears to have) |
| Construction | Unlined, short length, welted side pockets, sit-down collar with throat latch, front zip with snap storm flap, zipped rear game pocket |
| Sizes | S to XL (UK sizing) |
| Status | Out of production; limited collaboration |
| RRP | Not quoted: out of production and found second-hand |
Questions
Is this the jacket Bond wears in No Time To Die?
Very likely. Bond wears the navy Barbour x Engineered Garments Graham in Cuba, and a shot from the second trailer points to the unwashed waxed version. The exact finish is the one detail that stops short of full confirmation.
Is the Barbour Graham jacket still available?
Not new. It was a limited collaboration from 2019 and is out of production, so pre-owned examples are the route. Check size and condition carefully.
What is the difference between the Graham and the Covert?
The Covert is Barbour’s later, similar jacket. It is a slightly darker navy, with a smaller front zip and a modified cut and collar snaps. It is a fair alternative, but it is not the Graham from the film.
Should I buy the washed or the unwashed Graham?
Choose unwashed if you want the film look. It has the full waxed finish and can be rewaxed. The washed version is softer, but it is sold as not eligible for rewaxing.
More of Bond’s wardrobe is in our clothing section.
