Most villains dress to be noticed. Franz Oberhauser, in the Moroccan lair in Spectre, does the opposite: navy on navy, nothing shouted. Under the jacket is the detail that rewards a second look, a Wooyoungmi navy shirt with black rubber lace along the collar and cuffs. It is a small, odd, well-judged idea, and the reason the Wooyoungmi navy shirt from Spectre is worth knowing about even if the exact piece is hard to find.
In the film
Christoph Waltz’s Oberhauser wears the shirt in the Moroccan lair in Spectre, under a navy Nehru jacket by the London tailor Timothy Everest. Christie’s listed it in its 2016 Spectre auction as part of his Moroccan lair costume. Daniel Craig’s Bond does not wear it; this is a villain’s shirt, and a rather good one. The rest of the film is on our Spectre page.
The Wooyoungmi navy shirt in detail
The rubber lace. Black rubber gives a lace effect on the collar and cuffs. Black on navy sits close to tone on tone, which is the point: a dark shirt from across the room, the texture only up close. It is a restrained way to be unusual.
A neckband collar. There is no pointed collar to frame a tie, just a band that stands close to the neck. It says at once that this is a shirt for wearing under a jacket without a tie, and it keeps the line of a collarless or Nehru-style jacket clean.
Button cuffs. The cuffs fasten with a button rather than a link, which keeps the shirt informal. The lace trim sits at the wrist, where it shows when the jacket sleeve rides up.
Navy, not black. The colour matters. Navy gives the black lace something to contrast with, softly, where a black shirt would have swallowed the detail entirely.
Wearing it now
We would not wear this as costume. Taken out of the lair, it is a dark, textured shirt for a man who wants evening wear a little off the usual path, and it asks for very plain company. Keep everything else quiet: a navy or charcoal jacket with a soft shoulder, grey trousers, black leather shoes. Let the collar do the talking.
With a jacket. The neckband collar suits collarless or close-cut jackets, but it works under an ordinary single-breasted blazer too, worn open at the neck. Skip the tie and the pocket square. A tie would fight the collar, and the lace is the accent already.
What to avoid. Anything else with texture or pattern. Knitwear over it hides the detail, and a bold jacket competes with it. This shirt works best as the only unusual thing you are wearing.
Finding one. The exact shirt is a past-season piece, known from the 2016 Christie’s auction, and we found no current listing, so it is a second-hand search; our button runs an eBay search for it. Wooyoungmi still makes shirts: at the time of writing, October 2026, those on the maker’s own site were priced from US$420 to US$730. If you want the spirit of the piece, look for a dark neckband shirt with one considered flourish, rather than a copy.
For more pieces in the spirit of the films, see our clothing guide.
Specifications
| Maker | Wooyoungmi |
|---|---|
| Colour | Navy blue |
| Trim | Black rubber lace effect on collar and cuffs |
| Collar | Neckband |
| Cuffs | Button |
| Worn by | Franz Oberhauser (Christoph Waltz), Moroccan lair, Spectre |
| RRP | Exact shirt not currently listed. Wooyoungmi shirts on the maker’s site were US$420 to US$730 (RRP at the time of writing, October 2026) |
Current shirts are on Wooyoungmi’s own shirt page.
Questions
Who wears the Wooyoungmi shirt in Spectre?
Christoph Waltz’s Franz Oberhauser wears it in the Moroccan lair, under a navy Nehru jacket. Bond does not.
Can you still buy the Spectre Wooyoungmi shirt?
We found no current listing for the exact shirt. It was part of the 2016 Christie’s Spectre auction, and Wooyoungmi’s current shirt range is a different set of pieces. It is out of production as far as we can tell. Our button runs an eBay search for it, though we found no matching listing ourselves.
What jacket does Oberhauser wear over it?
A navy silk velvet Nehru jacket, bespoke from the London tailor Timothy Everest. A neckband shirt keeps that collarless line clean.
How do you wear a neckband shirt without a tie?
Under a collarless or close-cut jacket, buttoned to the top or one button down, with plain trousers and shoes. Keep the rest of the outfit quiet so the collar detail reads.
More on the film’s wardrobe is in our film guides.
