Pierce Brosnan’s Bond wears a blue bird’s eye Brioni suit through a tank chase and a train in GoldenEye and it still looks composed. The Brioni Augusto suit takes its name from a specific Brioni jacket model, and knowing the model explains the look.
In the film
Bond wears the blue bird’s eye suit in GoldenEye (1995) with black Diplomat shoes, through the T-55 tank chase and the train scenes. Our records list Brioni as the maker and the Augusto as the jacket model, with medium confidence. One tailoring writer reports that Brioni’s own order records for the film list Augusto jackets.
The details
The Augusto cut. One reference describes the Augusto jacket as a classic Roman cut with a full, traditional fit and large, straight shoulders. It is a roomier shape than a modern slim cut, which suits a suit worn on the move.
Bird’s eye. The cloth carries a small, even pattern that reads from a distance as a textured blue. It is formal enough for an office and quiet enough for travel.
Not currently sold. The Augusto is not a model we found in Brioni’s current suit range. The buy button is an eBay search for the model, so expect second-hand jackets, often sold as separates.
Wearing it now
A blue bird’s eye suit is a good daytime suit: mid-blue reads more relaxed than navy and less severe than charcoal. We would wear it with a white or pale blue shirt, a knitted or plain dark tie and black shoes, as Bond does. Brown shoes also work if you want it casual.
Second-hand fit. Roman cuts run full. Measure the shoulder and chest of a suit you already like and compare those figures with the listing instead of trusting the labelled size. Have a tailor adjust sleeves and waist; do not alter the shoulders.
Condition. Check the lining under the arms and the trouser seat for wear, and ask whether the suit has been dry-cleaned heavily. Overcleaning ruins good cloth.
In the same spirit
For a suit you can buy new, Tom Ford’s O’Connor in grey Prince of Wales check is in our catalogue as an alternative. It is a different cloth and a different film.
Specifications
| Maker | Brioni |
|---|---|
| Jacket model | Augusto |
| Cloth | Blue bird’s eye pattern |
| Cut | Roman, full fit (per one reference) |
| Worn with | Black Diplomat shoes |
| Status | Not currently sold; found second-hand |
Brioni’s current suits are on its own site.
Questions
What suit does Bond wear in the GoldenEye tank chase?
A blue bird’s eye suit by Brioni, in the Augusto model, worn with black Diplomat shoes.
What is a Brioni Augusto?
It is a Brioni jacket model, described as a classic Roman cut with a full fit and large straight shoulders.
Can I buy the suit new?
We did not find the Augusto in Brioni’s current range. Second-hand jackets and suits turn up through eBay and similar sites.
More tailoring is in the clothing collection, and the actor’s looks are under Pierce Brosnan.
