The world of James Bond, considered for a life well lived

No Time To Die: the wardrobe, outfit by outfit

No Time To Die: the wardrobe, outfit by outfit

Daniel Craig’s last Bond film is a catalogue of how a man dresses in four climates and one evening. We take the outfits in order, and say which pieces are worth owning.

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The No Time To Die wardrobe is the most wearable the series has produced, and the reason is simple: Daniel Craig’s Bond spends most of the film out of a suit. A retired man in Jamaica, a man on the move in southern Italy, a man in a long coat in Norway, and only then the London tailoring and the black tie. This guide takes the outfits in the order the film does, says what he wore, and says what is worth borrowing from each. If you came for the No Time To Die James Bond outfits as a checklist, you will find one. If you came to dress better, you will find that too.

The short answer

Five looks carry the film. In Jamaica, Bond wears a dark silk shirt, a plain grey T-shirt, blue shorts and tan boat shoes. In Matera, he wears a sand corduroy suit, then a navy linen jacket over grey cord. In Norway, a long green needlecord duster over a white Henley. In London, the Tom Ford O’Connor suits in grey check and navy, in black calf Crockett & Jones. In Cuba, a black Tom Ford tuxedo. Through all of them runs one watch, the titanium Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition. The most useful pieces for an ordinary life are the unglamorous ones: the T-shirt, the Henley, the chukka boots, the corduroy.

What the films show

A note on method before the clothes. Everything below comes from our catalogue of the film’s costume, which records each piece against a character, an outfit and a scene, and from the makers’ own pages. Where a source says a garment is “possibly” or “apparently” in a scene, we say so or leave it out. The film’s costume designer was Suttirat Anne Larlarb, and several makers worked with her on pieces made for Bond rather than bought off the rail. Where a retail version is the same model as the screen piece, we say so. Where it is only close, we call it a route to the look.

Craig’s Bond is covered in full on our No Time To Die film page, and his earlier wardrobes sit under the Daniel Craig hub.

Jamaica: the retired man

The film opens its present-day story with Bond retired, and the clothes say it before anyone does. The shirt is dark and silk, long in the sleeve, with a chest pocket and a shortened hem: the Tommy Bahama Catalina Twill is the shirt identified as the one. He wears it around his house, behind the wheel of the Land Rover Series III, and on the yacht, where it is unbuttoned as he changes into his tuxedo. Sources differ on whether it is black or very dark navy, so we call it dark.

Underneath, or instead of it, the Orlebar Brown OB-T in grey melange is a plain tailored cotton crew neck, worn with blue shorts walking from the yacht to the villa, out fishing and sailing. The shorts themselves are the Jed North Agile, a gym short with the logo removed for the film. The shoes are tan Sperry Gold Cup Rivingston boat shoes, worn driving to Port Antonio to meet Felix Leiter. A navy Carhartt cap and a Croakies strap for the glasses complete the yacht look.

The glasses are the Vuarnet Legend 06, in a brown nylon frame with Brownlynx lenses. Vuarnet says Craig chose the 06 for the film, and it is most clearly seen while he drives the Land Rover. We would buy one pair of sunglasses like this and keep it for a decade.

What to take from Jamaica: dark silk is a better hot-weather shirt than most men expect, provided it is cut with room and worn open at the neck. Pair it with the plainest trousers you own, and let the T-shirt do the work in the heat. Nothing here is loud, which is the point.

Matera: the chase and the walk

Matera gives Bond two outfits. The first is for the chase through the stone streets, and it is the most relaxed suit of the Craig era: the Massimo Alba Sloop suit, in sand-toned baby corduroy, soft in the shoulder and cut like a cardigan. It is worn with a blue shirt, a broad burgundy Alexander Olch Avery necktie, Albert Thurston dove grey braces and the Drake’s Crosby chukka boots. Each of those details is recorded against the Matera scenes.

The boots deserve their own note. The Drake’s Crosby is a dark brown suede chukka with moccasin stitching across the toe, and it carries the car chase, the hotel stay at the Palazzo Lucareschi and the later walk with Madeleine Swann. One caution from our provenance notes: the boots on the IMAX poster, with Bond on the motorcycle, belong to the stunt rider and are not these.

The second Matera look is the quiet one. For the romantic walk he wears the Connolly Giubbino, a short, unlined navy jacket in mixed linen, over a white short-sleeve Henley and light grey Massimo Alba Winch corduroy trousers held up with a black Max2 belt. He wears round tortoiseshell Barton Perreira Norton sunglasses with it. The jacket is neither blazer nor overshirt, and opinion on it is split. We think it works, provided the rest of the outfit stays plain.

What to take from Matera: soft tailoring in cotton and linen, not wool, for any warm-weather trip. A sand corduroy suit will not do for a boardroom, and was never meant to. It is for a long lunch and a walk afterwards.

Norway: the long coat

The Norway sequence is where the film’s costume is most unlike a Bond film. The Massimo Alba duster coat is a long, loose, unlined coat in green needlecord, sold as the RAIN2. Bond wears it most often over a white Henley, with Massimo Alba Mauko needlecord trousers and dark brown suede boots, and it appears in the scene with the Toyota Land Cruiser and the helicopter. Larlarb has said the coat began as a left-field piece in a fitting that Craig liked, and became the one Bond simply grabs once the scene was written.

The boots are the Crockett & Jones Molton, in dark brown rough-out suede on a Dainite rubber sole. Rough-out is waxed, which makes it a better answer to bad weather than ordinary suede. The shirt is harder to pin down: the Connolly x Finamore oatmeal shirt appears in a Norway outfit with the Molton boots, though the exact scene is not recorded, so we treat that pairing as likely rather than certain.

That shirt is worth knowing about regardless. The Connolly No Time To Die shirt is oatmeal, a 70/30 cotton and linen blend, cut and sewn in Italy with a cutaway collar. It also appears in a Matera outfit. It is the easiest piece in the film to bring into an ordinary week.

What to take from Norway: a coat that is not a topcoat. Most men own one overcoat and nothing between it and a jumper. A loose, long cord coat fills that gap, and it asks nothing of what is under it.

The mission clothes

For the final act, Bond is in navy. The N.Peal 007 Ribbed Army Sweater is a ribbed Merino and cashmere sweater with shoulder and elbow patches, developed with Larlarb and seen on the character poster and in the trailer. Under it sits the white Rag & Bone Classic Henley, with N.Peal 007 combat trousers, braces and black touch gloves. We leave the rest of that outfit out; the sweater and the Henley are what a reader can wear.

The Henley is the quieter lesson. It appears across several outfits, and in most scenes only the collar and placket show. A soft white long-sleeve Henley is the layer we would add to any wardrobe first.

London: the suits

London is where the film returns to Tom Ford. The grey Tom Ford O’Connor Prince of Wales suit is worn walking from the Aston Martin V8 Vantage to a government building, and appears in one of the first promotional images. Our provenance notes record the screen match as similar rather than identical, so the retail suit is the closest route to the look, not the same cloth. A navy O’Connor appears in the same scenes and near Hammersmith Bridge.

The details are in the small things: a blue silk tie held with a plain rhodium Benson & Clegg tie slide, and black calf shoes. The Crockett & Jones Highbury is a plain-fronted derby with three eyelets, the same model Bond wore in Skyfall and Spectre. It is worn with both London suits and on Hammersmith Bridge.

What to take from London: a grey check that reads as plain grey at a distance is the most forgiving suit a man can own, and a slim cut leaves no room for a poor fit. Spend on the alteration.

Cuba: black tie

Cuba brings the evening look. In the scene where Paloma presents the tuxedo from a Bennett Winch suit carrier, Bond wears the Tom Ford Atticus tuxedo with a white poplin shirt and black braces. The trousers, in wool and mohair with a satin side stripe, are sold on their own as the Tom Ford Atticus evening trousers. Our notes say the Highbury shoes were not clearly seen with the tuxedo, so we do not claim them. More from the film’s wardrobe is collected under Clothing.

The accessories and the watch

One watch runs through the film: the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition, reference 210.90.42.20.01.001, in Grade 2 titanium with a tropical brown dial on a titanium mesh bracelet. Omega describes it as identical to the watch worn on screen. It is seen in Jamaica, in London around Whitehall and the Thames, in Cuba, and on the mission with Nomi, where it appears on a NATO strap, though that is less firmly confirmed. We would wear it on the mesh. More watches are collected under Watches.

What we would choose

If you buy one thing from the film, make it the Henley or the chukka boots, not the suit. They cost less, they go with what you own, and they are the pieces that still look right without the story attached. If you buy two, add the Vuarnet glasses. If you are buying a suit, choose the grey check and have it altered properly. The sand corduroy is a pleasure but only if you have somewhere to wear it.

Questions

What suit does Bond wear in No Time To Die?

In London, a grey Prince of Wales check Tom Ford O’Connor suit, and a navy O’Connor. In Matera, the Massimo Alba Sloop corduroy suit. In Cuba, a black Tom Ford Atticus tuxedo.

What watch does Bond wear in No Time To Die?

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M 007 Edition, in titanium with a brown dial and mesh bracelet.

What does Bond wear in Jamaica?

A dark silk Tommy Bahama shirt, a grey Orlebar Brown T-shirt, dark blue Jed North shorts, tan Sperry boat shoes and Vuarnet Legend 06 sunglasses.

Is the clothing still available?

Many pieces are still sold by their makers, though some were limited runs or have been renamed, so check the maker before you plan around one.

The pieces mentioned

For the earlier Craig wardrobes, start at the Daniel Craig hub.

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